We have a fascination with places that were founded by ideology or entrepreneurs, or where these factors have had a significant influence on history. Whether it's Veenhuizen or the city we live in, Eindhoven. When we think of peat areas, often the catalyst for reclamation and subsequent construction of factories and houses (the colonies), our thoughts quickly turn to the northeastern part of our country. However, they can be found in other places as well. On the border of North-Brabant and Limburg lies the Peel. This peatland is remarkable because the development of the landscape and the villages - Brabants Helenaveen and Limburgs Griendtsveen (where the same dialect is spoken) - are so closely intertwined. These villages are the only peat colonies in South Netherlands.
Peat is formed through the incomplete biological decomposition of dead plant material underwater. Over the course of centuries, this can grow into a thick layer, up to 6m deep. From this peat, turf can be extracted, a process called ‘peat digging.’ To ensure orderly operations and prevent unregulated extraction, detailed regulations were established. One of the oldest documents dates back to 1676. Initially, peat extraction in the Peel was done on a small scale for local use and sale. The industry later expanded on a large scale to serve brick manufacturers. However, growth was soon hindered by the limited means of transporting peat in larger quantities, leading to the digging of canals. In 1853, 600 hectares in the Heitrakse Peel were purchased by Jan van de Griendt (1804-1884), a supervisor of Water Management from Den Bosch, and his brother Nicolaas. They commissioned the digging of the Helenavaart canal and founded the village of , named after Jan's wife, Helena Panis. In 1855, an additional 300 hectares were acquired, and 777 hectares were leased for peat extraction. The brothers then established the Helenaveen Company in 1858, together with brick manufacturer G.W.J. Carp.
In 1882, a new company was founded dedicated to the production of peat litter, called the Griendtsveen Company. In 1885, a factory was built for this purpose. The top layer of the peat, known as the "bolster," is highly suitable for the manufacture of peat litter. Peat litter was used as a substitute for straw in stables, as it has a high absorbency capacity. This product was exported to various countries in Europe. In 1895, the Municipal Peat Company (municipality of Deurne) was established, which took over the peat litter factory of Steegh & Esser from Helenaveen. In 1901, the Drenthe Reclamation Company was even taken over. The peat extraction left its mark on the landscape. It's not surprising when you consider that between 1885 and 1912 alone, approximately 1,500 hectares of grey peat and 400 hectares of black peat were excavated. It's almost unimaginable that peat extraction only ceased in 1984. What you see now is a unique landscape with its own flora and fauna. Around 1930, this landscape was recognised for its natural value, and in the following decades, State Forestry (Staatsbosbeheer) gradually acquired more of the area. In the summer of 2020, a large fire ravaged the Deurnsche Peel, consuming 800 hectares. The summer of 2022 was also very dry, and a fire broke out in Mariapeel on the other side of the Helenavaart canal; fortunately, it was smaller, burning approximately 40 hectares of forest and peat.
The established companies provided employment in the area and ensured housing. It began along the side canals of the Helenavaart, known as ‘strooijen keten,’ (thatched chain) which is how Helenaveen acquired its nickname, ‘The Strooijen Village.’The houses were given plots of land so that residents could grow their own food. Eventually, Helenaveen became a horticultural village, and even today, large trucks pass through the village carrying flowers and fruit. The workers were brought in from the provinces Drenthe and Overijssel, which is evident in the non-Brabant names and the presence of the Dutch Reformed and Calvinist churches in this predominantly Catholic environment. The village has a population of 680 people (2021).
We will take a walk from south to north, starting in Helenaveen and then proceeding to Griendtsveen. The walk begins on the south side of Helenaveen, by the canal, near the post-war Catholic . The original Neo-Gothic church was built by Pierre Cuypers but was destroyed in 1944. It was replaced in 1950 with a church designed by Jos Deltrap, with slight references to the Bossche School architectural style. The Peel region suffered significant damage during the war, and this is particularly evident in Helenaveen. There are very few pre-war buildings remaining. Jules de Corte (1924-1996), a Dutch songwriter, composer, pianist, and singer who was born in the neighboring town of Deurne but lived in Helenaveen for a long time, expressed it fittingly:
‘Helenaveen, Helenaveen, our village born from peat.
There is no lovelier place; it's good to belong there.
Although not everything remained the same and much has changed,
we will always hold dear Helenaveen and the Peel throughout our lives.’
In the park next to the church stands a carillon bearing its name, with the inscription:
'In the old tower
the carillon sings of days with rain
of days with sun
...
I wish I could forever continue its song.’
In the park, there is also a section of railway track with wagons used for transporting peat.
The village of Helenaveen is situated between the Catholic, on the northern side of the village. The core of the village is not located on Helenavaart. Along the water, there are scattered houses on large plots. However, the cafes are situated along the road, providing a view of and widening of the canal.
The church and the minister's residence, built in 1867, are located at the bend of the road leading to Helenavaart. These are the oldest stone buildings in the village. In 1880, a Sunday school was added. The church was constructed as a Waterstaatskerk, which means that the church buildings were built under the supervision, and sometimes based on the designs, of engineers from Rijkswaterstaat between 1824 and 1875, often with financial support from the national government. This part of the village seems to be isolated, like a small enclave from times gone by.
The journey continues in a northward direction, along the Helenavaart. Here you will find several so-called "Koningshoeven" (King's Farms). Between 1908 and 1920, the Maatschappij Helenaveen (Company Helenaveen), with the support of the King-Willem III Fund established in 1889, built nine large farmhouse complexes along the canal. This fund assisted workers and tenants who saw their income from agriculture and peat extraction decline around 1900, and it promoted arable and horticultural activities. Six of these farms still exist. The , built in 1913, originally served as a dairy farm with a dairy cellar underneath the building. In 2003, its agricultural function was discontinued, and it was converted into an ice cream farm. Today, it serves as a residence, ice cream parlor, and meeting center. A great place to catch your breath and take a walk through the landscape. We move on to Griendtsveen.
One of the earliest buildings in Griendtsveen is the Catholic parish church of , a national monument. It looks very picturesque and naturally draws you towards it. St. Barbara is the patron saint of a peaceful death and the protector of people with dangerous occupations, such as miners, firefighters, and peat workers. The village was initially a ‘rectorate’ under the village of America, and the rector used to celebrate Mass in a shop space used by both Catholics and Protestants. America became a parish in 1891, and eventually, Griendtsveen did as well in 1903. After collecting sufficient funds through a lottery, the Maatschappij Griendtsveen (Company Griendtsveen) commissioned the construction of the church and the monastery. The church was completed in 1895, designed by the Limburg architect-contractor N.J.H. (Jacques) van Groenendael (1868-1942). It is a small neo-Gothic brick hall church with a striking stair tower at the front. During the war, the church was heavily damaged, with fifteen direct hits severely damaging the church walls and interior, and none of the stained-glass windows survived. New stained-glass windows were installed in the narrow choir after the war (1947), designed by Charles Eyck (1897-1983), giving the church a modern appearance on the inside. This Limburg artist, along with artists like Joep Nicolas, was a pioneer of the expressionist Limburg School. Emergency repairs followed quickly. It was not until 1987-88 that the church was fully restored. It is a very charming building on the inside. Particularly noteworthy is the model of the procession, which was presented as a gift to the parish on May 6, 1995. It is evident that the church still holds a significant place in the community. The adjacent monastery was inhabited by the Franciscan Sisters of Veghel, dedicated to St. Catherine, from 1904 until 1997. Subsequently, the building was used as a parish facility. Next to the church stands the former monastery from 1903, designed by Louis Kooken, about which more information will follow later. It is a national monument and has been vacant since 2018. At the end of 2023, the decision was made to transform the building into 6 social rental homes.
Behind the church lies the cemetery. Here, several members of the Van de Griendt family rest under inconspicuous graves, with the exception of Major General I. Higly, whose grave features a standing monument in a prominent location. The same cannot be said for the grave of one of Griendtsveen's most famous residents, the writer Toon Kortooms (1916-1999). He was born in Deurne as the seventh child of a family of fourteen, known as the ‘Circus Kortooms.’ Toon Kortooms' birthplace is Huize Peelheim, located very close to the Deurne Turf Litter Factory where his father served as the director. The remains of the factory's foundations are still present. The house now serves as a museum displaying Kortooms' books and letters, and visitors can participate in a peat-cutting workshop. Additionally, his father managed a peat extraction site. The writer's work primarily consisted of novels about the Peel region, particularly Griendtsveen. One of his well-known books is "Beekman and Beekman," which describes growing up in the Peel during the 1930s and 1940s, culminating in the Second World War. Many people are familiar with "Help, de dokter verzuipt!" (Help the doctor is drowning) as it was adapted into a film in 1974. Of course, there is also a Toon Kortooms Park. Despite living and passing away in Bloemendaal, he wished to be buried in Griendtsveen. A black marble pillar with a book atop it marks his grave. The words "een droom" (a dream) are frequently inscribed beneath the book. The following text is written continuously on all sides of the pillar:
"For me, Griendtsveen is a dream that comes true every spring when the season blossoms from seemingly barren ground and dead wood. I must go there! There's no stopping it. Nostalgia creeps up on me, homesickness drives me to the village of my youth, where I attended church and school. Driving slowly along the canals full of hidden secrets beneath their water surface. Passing through tunnels of tender green that line the canals. And every visit ends, I know it in advance, at the St. Barbara Church where time seems to stand still, and the sounds of the bell from the organ loft sound so familiar to my ears. Then, I feel completely at home again."
The village of Griendtsveen is located across the Helenavaart canal from the church and was founded by Eduard (1857-1935) and Josef van de Griendt, sons of Jan van de Griendt. Eduard was succeeded by his son Jan (1889-1967) and then by his son Jan (1927-2014), also known as ‘jonge Jan’ (young Jan). This last Jan left Griendtsveen in 1975. In the village, you can still experience the peat and canal structure with the drawbridges crossing and the paths along the Griendtsveen canal. The village is a protected historic site designated by the government, and for good reason. The first building you encounter when crossing the canal from the church is - following Catholic tradition - the Inn De Morgenstond, which has been standing here since 1890. This location was ideal as a meeting place for travelers, traders, and villagers. In 1962, ownership of the inn transferred from the Maatschappij to the municipality of Horst. Even now, you can sit there comfortably, and it's a hub of local residents coming and going.
The village has a triangular layout, wedged between the Helenavaart, Griendtsveenkanaal, and the railway. The railway is part of State Line E between Breda and Maastricht. This line was opened in 1866 as the final section of the State Line. There are two clusters of houses in an otherwise sparsely populated area. The first area is located along Pastoor Hendriksstraat, which runs alongside the inn and to the south. Here, you can see Villa Sphagnum on 8.5 hectares, which was offered for sale in 2019 and where the Van de Griendt family lived. The nearby Villa Erica was intended for higher-ranking staff. Post-war buildings line Pastoor Hendriksstraat. At the intersection with Deurnseweg, there is a small park with a statue of Eduard van de Griendt, unveiled in 1997, as well as some tools and machinery used in peat extraction.
The second part of the village is located further east and surrounds Lavendellaan, formerly known as Peel Road. Here, you will find the first buildings constructed between 1890 and 1910, such as a school, hall, bakery, butcher shop, and post office at Oude Dorpsplein (Old Village Square). It can give you the feeling of an open-air museum, especially with an old electricity pole with lighting and a pump. Twelve houses were built for higher-ranking staff on Apostelweg and Ericaweg. They were called "De Twaalf Apostelen" (). These houses, of which ten remain, were designed by Louis Kooken (1867-1940), the municipal architect of Eindhoven. The houses resemble garden villages in terms of architecture and are all unique. They are constructed with red brick and light-colored stucco elements under the roofs. The windows have shutters, and the roofs are covered with red tiles, often in two directions or with a bend or raised section, creating a playful effect. There used to be many more workers' houses along Lavendellaan, but most of them have been demolished.
The former peat litter factory, known as the "Turffabriek ()" was built in 1899 to process peat into litter. In 1980, it was purchased by a group of people who formed a residential community there. Later, from that collective, the construction firm De Loods emerged, for which Jan once completed assignments. In 2004, De Loods relocated to the former Mariëngaarde monastery in Aarle-Rixtel. Over time, the Turffabriek was divided into two separate residential and working areas, and it also housed a bed and breakfast for a considerable period.
It's enjoyable to walk through the village. With the placement of signs along the road, you can feel that the people are proud of the history of this place. You can still walk through the village on unpaved paths, along canals and drawbridges, in relative tranquility. But you also sense that it's vibrant, that it's an enterprising community. Griendtsveen, with less than 500 residents even now, produced another notable figure. In the garden on Sint Barbarastraat, you'll find the sign "Residence of the Van Doorne family." This is where Wim van Doorne (1906-1978) was born. He, along with his brother Hub (1900-1979), founded the company Hub van Doorne's Machinefabriek en Constructiewerkplaats, which would later become known as Van Doorne Automobielfabriek and eventually grow into the well-known DAF. So, peat extraction has proven to be a fertile ground in many respects, including text for this article.
2022
